On Saturday we had a very full day in upper Galilee. It included the Church of the Beatitudes, the church of the loaves and fishes, Peter’s Church, Capernaun, a lunch of St. Peter’s fish, and a ride on the Sea of Galilee. In the late afternoon we had the most moving experience which was a visit to Bir’im, a village close to the Lebanon border that was the birthplace of Bishop Elias Chacour and many other Palestinian Christians from a span of well over 600 years. Unfortunately, it now lies in ruins.
This is the story. In 1948 Zionist soldiers came to the village and they were welcomed by the people as Jewish friends. The villagers (1,050 people) had long relationships with their Jewish neighbors in neighboring towns and expected the same relationship with these soldiers. It was not to be. After two weeks, the soldiers who had been given wonderful Palestinian hospitality told the people that it was too dangerous for them to remain in their homes and that they should leave immediately. They were told it would just be for 48 hours. So they left quickly with little food and coverings. It was winter and it snowed. The 48 hours stretched into weeks and they were hungry and cold. Seven of the children died. They begged to return but were told they could not. The people of Bir’im became internal refugees and eventually many of them located in a nearby village, Jish. Others left the country for Jordan, Lebanon, or Syria.
But, the people of Bir’im are proud people who love their village and they did not give up. In 1951 they again asked the government if they could go back and were told “security” was a problem. They took legal action and eventually their case got to the Supreme Court which ruled in 1952 that they could return to their village. You can imagine the joy of these people! In this country, however, remember the military has the upper hand. To this day the ruling of the high court has not been honored. In 1953 as the people prepared to go to their ancestral home, they heard bombs and yes, the entire village was bombed. Their homes were destr0yed and they stood on an adjoining hillside and watched for two days as their village collapsed in rubble. It became one of the 513 villages destroyed. Our guide was 84 year old Tommie who was 21 in 1948. Under Tommie’s guidance, we walked among the ruins of homes and businesses. We saw the 9 meter deep cistern that Tommie and his brother dug beside their house; he talks proudly of the living sweet water it has to this day.
Three Prime Ministers have promised the people of Bir’im that something would be done but nothing has been. Begin appointed a committee to study the problem. At first the committee, agreed that the people should be able to return BUT they would need to pay for the land, they could not take all their children, and they must sign a document stating that they had no rights. Obviously, the people of Bir’im did not agree to that. The government ignores the UN Resolutions regarding Palestinians and their land rights. Tommie said, “The United Nations obeys Israel; rather than Israel obeying the United Nations.”
While Bir’im was evacuated for “security” reasons, there are today 5,000 Israeli settlers living in it as a “gated community” . In addition, to assure that the original villagers would not return, the rest of the land has been made into a national park where families come to picnic among the ruins of the homes not realizing that the owners of the homes were forced to leave by gunpoint and long to return to their land.
The spirit of the people is strong and they do return to worship in their church which they rebuilt in 1972 and to visit the cemetery which is very well kept and to sit in the ruins of their homes. In the summer they hold a summer camp for the children on the grounds of the church.
Tommie actually was the first one to see the soldiers who entered the village. He was on his way to the restaurant he owned. At the end of our tour as we sat in his beloved church, Tommie showed us a silver chalice and told us its story. It had been taken by one of the Zionist soldiers when they sacked the village and eventually that soldier moved back to Germany. A few years ago at age 95 he and his brother were going through his things and the brother asked, “What do you want to do with this?” The soldier answered, “Send it back to where it belongs.” It was sent back just last January 2011 and there was great rejoicing. Indeed, some of the old soldier’s relatives were invited to a celebration the villagers planned. The brother of the soldier came and it was a holy moment for all. Each year the descendants of the village gather at the church which cannot hold all of them but they come together to remember and to continue to hope that one day their children and grandchildren can reclaim the land that is so sacred to them.
In Christ,
Gene and Lois
Tomme's bombed home in Br'am
Tommie holds the silver chalice
Israeli army lookout tower protecting the settlement that has been developing on land owned by Br'am